A Tokyo temple.
A Tokyo temple. Credit: Gulbransen family photo

Japan is a unique country, distinguished by its rich cultural traditions and remarkable evolution.

Its population grew until the early 2000s, peaking at 128.1 million, but has since declined steadily due to low birth rates, high life expectancy and limited immigration, reaching an estimated 123.1 million in 2025.

Our last visit to Japan was 35 years ago, a brief glimpse that left us curious. Earlier this year, we finally returned and discovered far more about that country than expected, gaining a deep appreciation for Japan’s distinct culture.

We began in Tokyo, a vibrant metropolis of 14 million. The city had transformed dramatically, its skyline now filled with skyscrapers soaring 30 to 80 stories, blocking views of distant mountains we once saw.

Climbing Tokyo Tower revealed a breathtaking panorama, including Mount Fuji on a clear day.

We then joined a 12-person tour group for an eight-day exploration of western and southern Japan, visiting regions new to us.

After bidding farewell to our delightful group, my husband and I spent three days in Hiroshima, a beautiful city marked by resilience. Devastated by the dropping of a U.S. atomic bomb on Aug. 6, 1945, Hiroshima stands today as a testament to peace and recovery.

Japan’s cleanliness left a lasting impression. Tokyo’s sidewalks were immaculate, free of litter and encampments, despite no public trash cans.

  • Nishi Honganji Temple in Kyoto.
  • The author and her husband get their samurai on.
  • A Tokyo temple.
  • The A-Bomb Dome, often referred to as the Hiroshima Peace Memorial, was the only structure left standing near the epicenter of the Aug. 6, 1945, atomic bombing of Hiroshima.

People responsibly dispose of waste in designated indoor areas, keeping public spaces pristine.

Clean, abundant public restrooms were conveniently located, though they lacked towels or dryers.

The efficient public transportation system, with its punctual high-speed trains, was exceptional. Many Japanese prefer trains over cars, fostering walkable, well-maintained urban areas.

Japanese cuisine, typically enjoyed indoors due to cultural norms against eating on the go, offered diverse flavors.

Meals, often rice-based, use minimal sugar and moderate salt, contributing to Japan’s low obesity rate of 4.3% (compared to 40% in the United States) and life expectancy of 84.7 years (versus 77.5 years in the United States).

While 30 grams of daily sugar is deemed acceptable, Americans consume 126 grams, Germans 102.9 grams and the Dutch 102.5 grams, whereas Japanese average around 20-25 grams, supporting their healthier lifestyle.

Daily physical activity, especially walking, is more common in Japan, with adults averaging 7,200 steps compared to 5,100 in the United States.

In conclusion, Japan’s remarkable cleanliness, healthy lifestyle and vibrant culture deeply inspired us.

Its unique way of life makes it an extraordinary destination, promoting well-being for all who visit.

Susan Miles Gulbransen — a Santa Barbara native, writer and book reviewer — teaches writing at the Santa Barbara Writers Conference and through the Santa Barbara City College Continuing Education Division. The opinions expressed are her own.