Question: Our 40-plus-year-old kitchen cooktop barely works any longer and we are finally ready to replace it, but all the new models seem to be about 2 to 3-inches wider and about an inch deeper and we have tile countertops.
Is it possible to cut a larger opening in the countertop or do we need to do a full kitchen remodel?
Your Handyman: Many newer appliances — including cooktops, refrigerators and ovens — are a little larger than their aging ancestors, and we have had many appliance installations that required modifications to countertops or cabinet openings.
Enlarging the opening in your tile countertop by an inch or so all the way around usually can be done with a circular saw or an angle grinder fitted with a diamond-tipped blade made for cutting masonry.
A steady hand and newer blade will make a clean cut in the tile, but have your kitchen prepped for a cloud of tile and cement dust with plastic sheeting held in place with blue painters tape and drop cloths on the floor.
An additional consideration that needs to be looked into before purchasing the new cooktop is that new gas cooktops have electronic igniters as opposed to pilot lights, so there will need to be an electric outlet in the cabinet under the new cooktop.
If there is not an electrical outlet, installing one usually is not a huge problem unless the cabinet is an island on a concrete slab floor. A new electric line can usually be brought in from the crawl space under the house or from the plug under the sink for the dishwasher.
Most appliance stores offer free delivery and installation, but their license and insurance restrict them as to what type of work they can perform, which is usually limited to setting the appliance in place, plugging the cord into the wall plug, and connecting a water supply line.
For your project you will need to hire a contractor to do the tile cutting and the electrical work.
If your cooktop is electric and not gas, you will need to check the amperage of the existing 220-volt circuit that powers it.
If the amperage of the existing circuit is the same as the amperage required by the new cooktop, nothing needs to change. If the amperage required is less than the existing amperage, the circuit breaker will need to be changed with a new 220V breaker rated for the lower amperage.
If the new cooktop requires more amperage than the existing breaker provides, a new larger gauge cable will need to be run from the circuit breaker panel, which usually is a big job requiring the services of an electrician.
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Question: We keep having leaks in the sprinkler pipes in our yard, and the plumbing in our house is very loud when any water is being used. Is there some problem with our pipes?
Your Handyman: You are describing a possible symptom of high-water pressure, which can make the plumbing inside your home noisy but can also be the cause of expensive water damage from leaking pipes and appliances.
The interior water pressure in your home is measured in pounds per square inch (psi) and should be about 55 psi.
However, the water pressure in the main water line buried in your street has much higher pressure to supply you and your neighbors with adequate water during peak usage times like mornings, evenings and Super Bowl halftimes.
New homes are required by building codes to have a water pressure regulator installed where the main water pipe enters the house, allowing the interior water pressure to be adjusted up or down as needed.
You can check your home’s water pressure by buying a pressure gauge for about $10 at any hardware store. The device will thread onto the cold and hot water supply valves on your clothes washer.
If you get a pressure reading much exceeding 60 psi it’s time to adjust your pressure regulator if your home has one or to call a plumber who can install a new pressure regulator. That’s much less expensive than dealing with possible future water damage to your floors, cabinets or ceilings.
It’s ideal to have the water that is used outside your home for your garden hoses and sprinklers on a water supply pipe that is completely separate from the water supply for the interior of the house. That water should be regulated by a separate pressure regulator in addition to the one for the home interior.
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Question: The pilot light on my water heater keeps going out and I am getting really tired of going outside to light it when I am out of hot water, which is usually early in the morning when I’m hustling to get to work on time!
The tank doesn’t seem to be leaking at all. It is about 12 years old, but it is in an outside shed and there are rat droppings all over the inside of the shed.
Do I need to buy a new water heater, and how do I get rid of the rats?
Your Handyman: Hot water is one of those things that we really take for granted until we step into a cold shower.
Usually, a water heater needs to be replaced when its interior heating column starts to leak due to rusting, and you see water dripping or running out of the bottom of the tank.
If your water heater is not leaking and it works well except for the pilot flame going out, it’s possible that a plumber can replace the gas controls.
Otherwise, you may just consider having a new water heater installed and, since it is in an outside shed, be sure to have it wrapped with an insulating blanket to help it be a little more energy efficient.
Now, getting to the issue of the rats, even the smallest openings in the shed need to be sealed up to keep the rodents out of their warm little hiding place. That should solve the problem.
Baby mice and rats can pass through even the tiniest openings, so not only do all the cracks and joints need to be sealed up, but the door to the shed needs to close tightly on all four sides.
