There are various ways to reach Melk Abbey (Stift Melk), a Benedictine abbey in Lower Austria founded in 1089 and built, as seen today, in the early 1700s. The best is aboard a river cruise ship such as Uniworld’s Beatrice. Approaching it this way from the Danube River, one is astonished at the first peek of the gigantic Baroque structure perched atop a rocky cliff overlooking the Danube and charming town of Melk.
I’d been told it would be one of the highlights of our cruise, and it truly took my breath away. So much so, that as we walked up the narrow cobblestone streets of Melk, marveled at the 250-year-old linden trees gracing the abbey park and entered the impressive courtyard, I realized I had left my camera aboard ship! Luckily my traveling friend and neighbor, Carolyn, had her camera in hand. So, off we went, with me able to drink in the incredible history and beauty surrounding us without worrying about camera settings.
The museum itself has large adjoining rooms, each one a vivid, jewel-toned color — lime green, royal purple, cotton candy pink. Room No. 1, in cerulean blue, is dedicated to Saint Benedict, who founded the monastery of Monte Cassino in 529 A.D. after Leopold III von Babenberg very generously gave him a castle.
The Rule of Saint Benedict is practiced in monasteries throughout the world today. For instance, St. Louis is blessed to have its own Benedictine monks praying, teaching and living The Rule at St. Louis Abbey. The German word hore is the first word of the Rule of Saint Benedict and means “listen.” It greets you upon entering the brilliant blue room. Its Benedictine translation is “listen with your heart.” Room No. 5, the dazzling mirrored room, reflects man’s joy in a beautiful world, but reminds visitors that, Now we are seeing a dim reflection in a mirror; but then we shall be seeing face to face (1 Corinthians, 13:12).
An interpretation of heaven on Earth in Room No. 6 showcases a portrait of Saint Benedict encircled by angels. Room No. 8, the most creative room, shows three-dimensional images of the human body against riveting video, representing the ideal of the whole person, striving for inward faith and devotion to others. The Marble Hall, with its spectacular ceiling fresco, is where guests were received. An inscription over the door reads, Hospites tamquam Christus suscipiantur, or “Guests should be received as Christ would be.”
Then comes the library — and what a library this is! Divine is not overstating it. One of the most impressive, most historic libraries of the world, it contains more than 90,000 volumes, 2,000 manuscripts and 850 incunabulas (books printed before 1501). It’s hard to know where to look — upward to the gold-encrusted balconies, straight/neck-cricking up to the Paul Troger ceiling fresco or westward through one of the windows to the quaint town of Melk nestled below.
Proceed through a narrow, wood-carved door, down a comparatively unimposing stairway and be dazzled by the glory of the church, the high point of the monastery. Your senses are assailed by the brilliance of the gold, the softness of the frescoes, the splendor of the cross. And — if you’re listening — you may hear the strains of a Gregorian chant, or the subdued peal of church bells.
Plan to spend a full day at Melk. After such a divine day, earthly sustenance is available at the adjacent café and Stiftsrestaurant — lots of dumplings, apple strudel and sacher cake. Another word of advice:
Remember to bring your camera. But perhaps more important, hore — listen with your heart.
— Noozhawk contributing writer Judy Crowell is an author, freelance travel writer and part-time Santa Barbara resident. She can be reached at news@noozhawk.com.