Vigorous weather in the Santa Barbara Channel may make the boat crossing a challenge to some, but once at Santa Cruz Island in a protected bay or cove, a serene experience awaits. It is a gorgeous island all around, yet some areas are exceptional and merit special mention.
Cruising slowly along the rocky island coastline between Prisoners Harbor and Twin Harbors is a most awe-inspiring pastime for many island visitors because of tree- and brush-covered rugged steep mountains and narrow but inviting canyons.
Watch closely and it is possible to spot the indigenous island scrub jay or a majestic bald eagle (thanks to a successful bald eagle relocation and breeding program). I’m pleased to report that you won’t see any wild pigs wreaking destruction on the land, because the very difficult and costly eradication program is complete — or so we all hope.
Calm and serene nicely describe the east end of the island, near Smugglers Cove with its olive grove just above the inviting beach. Often the most protected anchorage at the island (except when santa ana winds blow from the east), this is a favored and busy spot. Fortunately, it is a broad anchorage with plenty of room for lots of vessels.
The long south side of the island is protected to some degree from the prevailing northwesterlies that scour the north side. The west end of the islands features grand vistas of windswept mountains and canyons carved by wind and runoff.
The north side of the island, along the western half, offers jaw-dropping beautiful tall cliffs plunging into the sea. Sea caves abound here, where kayakers — on days with mild swells — paddle happily to intimately explore spots where no one visits, besides pinnipeds and shore birds.
My favorite place in the world is here. Painted Cave is a spiritual place. Boats can venture into the world’s longest sea cave on days with calm seas and boaters typically come back out with a sense of awe and spiritual growth.
A private boat or charter boat is needed to visit many of these spots; however, easy access is available to certain hiking areas — such as Scorpion Anchorage and Prisoners Harbor — through National Park Concessionaires, Island Packers and Truth Aquatics. These companies offer boat rides to those spots and allow visitors time to go ashore and hike local trails to gain a feel for island life.
On the way across the channel, keep a sharp lookout for playful dolphins and whales. We are well into whale-watching season and are spotting both humpbacks and blue whales.
— Capt. David Bacon operates WaveWalker Charters and is president of SOFTIN Inc., a nonprofit organization providing seafaring opportunities for those in need. Visit softininc.blogspot.com to learn more about the organization and how you can help.
