The Santa Barbara County chaparral shrublands form my best-loved hiking region, also called Los Padres National Forest. However, the much higher “alpine” areas also summon the soul to breathe free again. Walking softly beneath tall conifers with azure Lake George gleaming below the thin air here above 9,500 feet, I inhale the fresh pine fragrances.
Lake George and nearby Lake Mary shimmer in the Mammoth Lakes Basin as part of the Inyo National Forest, and much of the area around Lake George also sits inside the celebrated John Muir Wilderness of the higher Sierra Nevada.
Covering the finest summit hiking along the Sierra, at 650,000 acres the federal John Muir Wilderness zone dwarfs our own San Rafael Wilderness (240,000 acres). The John Muir Wilderness encompasses more than 100 miles of genuinely high-altitude hiking and backpacking. Decades ago, I day-hiked to 14,032-foot Mount Langley in this John Muir Wilderness, bringing my 9-year-old son along, and he had a great time.
My partner of 56 years and I rented a ski-condo on the edge of Mammoth Lakes town so we could enjoy one or two of about six great hiking choices in the Mammoth Lakes Basin.
Before the COVID-19 pandemic, I would head out to the Eastern Sierra Mountains, once called The Camino Sierra, and backpack into the high country either with my son or teaching colleagues. Now, I quite appreciate “near-glamping” in a pleasant apartment at 7,000 feet where I can easily drive to a local trailhead — such as Lake George — and immediately begin to hike into the John Muir and ascend into empyrean realms of light (4.1.1. Driving Mammoth Lakes town to Mammoth Lakes Basin of lakes).
Scenic Lake Mary Road runs along a terrific bike path for seven spectacular miles amid the thick pines. You will see a turnout with many informative signs about the “Basin” with its many stunning lakes (stop and study the signs).
Lake Mary is the largest of the Mammoth Lakes, at more than a mile wide in one place, and we drove along it slowly for a leisurely time. Aside from the small marina visible in the photograph below, all of Lake Mary’s shoreline is free of human structures.
Another day, I walked along the little-used road quite a distance: fairly level, safe and easy. I was breathing hard at 8,900-feet elevation, and the workout gave mental energy and spiritual regeneration.
This portion of Lake Mary Road offers many pull-outs for mellow road hiking, but obviously fishing is the huge draw here and I saw several anglers, often with a small beach chair and a cooler. I don’t fish and I don’t ski; therefore, my exultant periods here have always been summer (bugs!) and when possible in early fall. The end of September through mid-October are the best hiking times in these higher eastern Sierra elevations.
About halfway around Mary, you see the signage for the smaller turn-off to enticing Lake George, a short 3/4ths-mile drive. I arrived there on Oct. 3 and found the parking lot was almost full, yet there was ample space and even spots to park in the shade.
Captivating 10,100-foot Crystal Crag across Lake George makes up the major focal point and an outstanding geological formation (first photograph).
Long ago, guru Franko, another friend, and I made the easy hike to the Crag’s base where we tried some climbing. There are many routes, and it’s a popular spot for rock climbers. (We had no gear except gloves and gave up after about 45 minutes since we began to face technical climbing. Oh, to be 40 and so foolish again!)
This time, I sprang out of the car at Lake George, grabbed my hiking poles and located the trailhead for the Mammoth Crest Trail leading to Crystal Lake, which is just one mile ahead. In two miles, the trail leads up to the actual 11,200-foot Mammoth Crest, a prominent skyline visible from our Mammoth Lakes ski-condo. (Alternatively, hikers can choose the Crystal Lake Trail and go around the lake.)
Awesome views from this steeply ascending trail, beginning at 9,200 feet, include down into Lake George and out to other startling ridges and blue lakes.
Hiking solo, I met an older Dutch couple who were wandering about with complete joy on their faces. I asked them how it was going, found out their nationalities and enjoyed a brief conversation. (They had been returning from the Mammoth Crestline above.)
“How do you like this landscape?” I asked.
“Incredibly beautiful and moving! We have nothing like this in Holland,” they said.
We also have nothing like these splendid high-altitude, conifer-laden lakes in Santa Barbara.
A sort of beauty and terror reign above 9,000 feet, and I trudged along, enjoying being alone, savoring relative solitude. Against all the rules, I carried no cell (but only a satellite phone would function here), no GPS (been here several times), no fishing gear and no trail companion. However, there were a few other hikers on the trail, such as the Dutch couple, and I was quite well decked-out with all sorts of useful gear (see 4.1.1. gear).
Once you reach the Mammoth Crest and Trail (two arduous miles), you have more options, including a longer trek to scenic Duck Lake. I felt great hiking above 9,000 feet on Oct. 3, and I know I could have reached the Duck Pass Trail and visited 10,500-foot Duck Lake and circumnavigated the often-visible Crystal Crag around past Barney Lake and Heart L. and then descended into Lake George again for a 10-mile trek (ending at the parking lot) (4.1.1.).
Ahh, it was an ideal Sierra day, warm and bright with a steady breeze. Although I felt fine, the Duck Pass notion was way too much. It would have been an ill-advised choice without at least one seasoned hiker-companion. Yet, I desperately wanted to press on, and the endorphin rush threatened to addle my sober septuagenarian judgment. I pondered for a time, wondering where old hiking comrades guru Franko, wild Pete and Mr. C were as I sipped water and munched a power bar.
I ambled on toward Mammoth Crest for a few minutes, savoring the views and the blazing Sierran light, then turned back, feeling grateful that my repaired heart (implant) worked so well, the legs and lungs felt good, accepting my best and the responsibility to turn back without any sighs of regret.
4.1.1.
Note: I assume that adults can find their way by car to Mammoth Lakes (try Highway 101 south). From the town of Mammoth Lakes, drive on Lake Mary Road past Lake Mary to Lake George and park in the ample parking area (90% full on Oct. 3) and begin hiking at the wooden Mammoth Crest Trail/Crystal Lake Trail sign. For overnight backpacking, there is a permit system. Contact the Inyo National Forest.
For the arduous 10-mile circumnavigation of the Crystal Crag via Deer Lakes, Duck Lake, Barney Lake and Arrowhead Lake, see the Tom Harrison Map and click here. It becomes a very long day, so start early!
Gear for day hiking: In addition to a normal outfit, I recommend very heavy hiking boots, hiking poles, at least three liters of water, a wide-brim hat, a med kit, long trousers and a long-sleeved shirt, gloves, sunglasses (it’s very bright at 10,000 feet), a GPS device if you choose, binoculars if you choose and, importantly, at least one savvy hiking partner. In addition, bring a satellite phone if you have one.
Map: Tom Harrison’s “Mammoth High Country Trail Map.”
