Question: My husband and I finally are empty-nesters in our home on Santa Barbara’s Mesa, and we want to convert what used to be our children’s bathroom into a guest bathroom.
We have already put in a new toilet and a nice new vanity, but what really needs to be torn out and redone is the tile in the shower, which is original to the house that is almost 50 years old.
Our budget is not terribly small, but we don’t really need tile or fixtures that are fancy or expensive.
What are our options?
Your Handyman: A new shower would certainly be a nice way to upgrade your guest bathroom, and the good news is there are numerous options available so it can be done without breaking the bank.
There are many different aspects to replacing a shower and tub alcove, and probably your first step is to spend some time looking online and in local home improvement showrooms for design ideas that appeal to you and your husband.
As a general rule, smaller tiles will take more labor to install and, conversely, larger tiles will require less labor. A skilled tile setter is an expensive trade person, and labor will be the major part of the total cost of your project.
One of the more labor-intensive styles of tile is what is commonly referred to as a subway tile, which is laid out in a running bond in which smaller rectangular tiles are set in a brick style layout, requiring many hours to be spent on layout, installation, cutting and finally grouting.
Large tiles — 18- or 24-inch square — are at the other end of the scale for installation expense and require much less labor. In fact, they can often be found on sale at the big box hardware stores for as low as $1 per square foot.
These large tiles require much less time for setting and grouting, and can be a very attractive yet less expensive option. They are available in a natural stone like travertine, slate or quartzite, and in many different glazed finishes.
It really doesn’t make sense to not replace the old tub and plumbing fixtures if the old tile is coming out, so it is best to remove the old tub alcove down to the wall studs.
Any hidden water damage to framing lumber or sub flooring that is exposed by the demolition should be completely removed and replaced while the old tub and tile are out and before any new materials are installed.
Wood that has gotten wet from a past leak or tub overflow can develop dry rot, which is a fungus that slowly destroys wood — even after the leak is repaired and the wood dries out.
Demolition is always messy, and be sure to take care that dust and debris are confined to the bathroom and not spread through the house.
In purchasing plumbing fixtures, it is my opinion that you are best off buying established brands like Kohler, Moen, Grohe, American Standard, etc., and by steering clear of any discount or generic brands that are often promoted as sales leaders by some retailers.
A name-brand plumbing fixture is more likely to be well made from quality materials, and will usually be easier to find replacement parts or rebuild kits for if needed.
Tubs generally are made from cast iron with a porcelain finish or in a synthetic material like acrylic or fiberglass.
I personally prefer the insulated synthetic tubs because they tend not to transfer heat from the bath water, keeping it warmer for longer than a cast iron tub for those times when you want to just soak for awhile.
The insulated synthetic tubs are also quieter when being filled and much lighter in weight than the cast iron tubs, which is good news for the backs of the plumbers who must lift and set them into place.
Both styles of tubs are available with a continuous front called an apron or without an apron, which requires a base wall to be built to support the front edge of the tub that faces out to the room.
A tub with an apron will require less labor from the carpenter to build the support wall and less labor spent dry walling, painting or tiling the face of the support wall.
There are two options for preparing the walls to support the tile and water seal the enclosure after the new tub and plumbing fixtures are in place.
The first is for the tile setter to float out a layer of concrete onto steel lathing over a waterproof membrane, all fastened to the wall studs, and the second is to cover the walls with a premade concrete backer board over the membrane instead of concrete.
Both options are good if done correctly by an experienced tile setter, and the concrete backer board will require less labor and expense.
Either method, if done correctly will provide your tile setter with a waterproof surface that is both plumb and square that he needs to start setting your tiles.
Homeowners often choose to just tile up vertically from the tub to a little above the shower head or you can tile all the way to the ceiling, which can be attractive and not add a big additional expense to the project.
Other nice details that can be added to the tile installation are recessed boxes in the tile walls, called niches, for bottles of shampoo, or a bench or triangular corner ledge.
After the tile installation and grouting is completed, the finishing touch is the shower door, which I think is much preferable to a shower curtain as a way of keeping water off the floor and adjacent walls.
A showering guest who doesn’t bother or forgets to ensure that the shower curtain is completely closed can accidentally flood your bathroom flooring, which can become an expensive problem over time.
A shower door is much more effective at keeping your bathroom floor dry. A simple yet attractive sliding shower door can be purchased at most home improvement supply stores for about $350. Most any glass shop will have more expensive shower door options on display on their sales floor if you desire a more custom look.
