Japanese sweet potatoes with onion rings at Mattei’s Tavern in Los Olivos.
Japanese sweet potatoes with onion rings at Mattei’s Tavern in Los Olivos. Credit: Rob Raede / Noozhawk photo

When it was built in 1886, Mattei’s Tavern was intended to be the social hub of the Santa Ynez Valley.

With a recent revamp and the addition of chef Joseph Humphrey, it is quickly re-establishing itself as just that.

The Tavern, at 2350 Railway Ave. in Los Olivos, is part of the renovated Inn at Mattei’s Tavern, which is managed by the Auberge Luxury Resorts Collection. Room prices are about what you’d expect.

However, one of the things Team Let’s Go Eat noticed right away at the restaurant is that the food and drink prices are quite reasonable. Even for high-end wine.

“We have a directive from ownership and the Auberge people to make this a place people can enjoy on a daily basis,” Humphrey told us.

“The luxury part comes from these incredible fresh local ingredients we use. It’s intrinsic to the food, rather than something we add.”

  • The landmark Mattei’s Tavern water tower now stands for a new era at the historic Santa Ynez Valley property, starting with its restaurant.
  • Mattei’s Tavern chef Joseph Humphrey is settling in in Los Olivos. “The menu here is a blend of everything I’ve ever done,” he says. “But it still has to fit Mattei’s: tavern and local.”
  • Japanese sweet potatoes with onion rings at Mattei’s Tavern in Los Olivos.
  • Mattei’s Tavern Steak with whipped potatoes.
  • Stone Fruit Salad with shaved ricotta salata cheese and arugula.
  • Mattei’s Blue Fin Crudo with crispy ham.
  • Great service personified.
  • Mattei’s Duck Cassoulet with white beans and andouille sausage duck-confit.
  • Bread, butter and roasted garlic make for a good start to the meal.

Although Humphrey has earned multiple Michelin Stars in his career, his focus here is on the word “tavern.”

“What does that mean to us?” he added. “It means food that’s approachable, recognizable, not fussy, and good value.”

The décor inside both the bar and restaurant is ranch casual, and there is a large patio for outdoor dining. We found the service, from hostess to check, to be outstanding. Shout out to our new friend, Aimee.

Humphrey arrived at Mattei’s with an exceptional résumé, having worked over the years with culinary luminaries like Bradley Ogden, Michael Mina, Julian Serrano and George Morrone.

This after never attending culinary school, and getting his start making hamburgers while attending Florida State University

“I learned how to really taste food from George Morrone, his palate is unmatched,” Humphrey said.

“I learned the business side from Michael Mina, and work ethic from Julian Serrano. He’s the hardest working guy in the business.”

Along the way he met the Auberge folks, and has run restaurants for them at their properties in Napa, Aspen and Santa Fe.

And since a few months ago, now in Los Olivos.

“It’s amazing to be part of this place and it’s history,” Humphrey said of his new home.  “And exciting to help write the next chapter.

“The menu here is a blend of everything I’ve ever done, including hints and tastes of my time in New Orleans working at Commander’s Palace (his first real job after graduation),” he shared.

“There’s a back story to many of our dishes, which we share with the wait-staff,” Humphrey continued. “But it still has to fit Mattei’s: tavern and local.”

In fact, he told us, the whole menu design starts with the word local.

“We work with farmers, see what’s in the field, what’s coming,” he explained.

Humphrey added, “We’ve got a local guy who’s going to raise grass-fed beef for us exclusively. We can say this cow was raised on this ranch right over there by someone we know. It’s great to be able to share the bounty of what’s grown and raised right here.”

Humphrey is putting his own stamp on the menu, and he tells us it’s about 80% done now.

“We’re organizing the menu into four categories: Tavern-style ‘Snacks’ for the table; ‘Natives’, a term from the late 1800s meaning shellfish from within 100 miles; ‘Appetizers’; and ‘Entrees’,” he said.  

“For the full experience, try lots of things. That’s how you’ll get to know who we are.”

It is best to bring friends, we would add.

For dessert we suggest the mud pie.

“It’s been on the menu here since inception,” Humphrey explained, “but we’re doing a new version, with homemade Oreo crust, espresso gelato from Via Gelateria in Solvang, and toasted over the coals from our wood fire.”

Seconds, please.

The wine list is extensive, and quite reasonably priced.

“Ras Marquart, our wine director, is not buying wine to keep it collecting dust in the cellar,” Humphrey noted.

On Wednesday’s Mattei’s does a “Wine Maker Takeover” of the bar for happy hour. Featuring local winemakers, it’s become quite a thing.

“It’s fun to see these burly ranchers and cowboys swirling their wine,” Humphrey shared, laughing.

So after all the places he’s worked, we wanted to know if we could expect Humphrey to stick around a while.

“I think so,” he said. “It’s really nice here, and my wife and I like it.”

We say: Good. We could get used to this tavern living.

Rob Raede switched to solid food at a young age and never looked back. He and his wife, both UC Santa Barbara grads, say their favorite form of entertainment is talking with the wait-staff, bartenders and owners at restaurants and bars. Rob’s also on a lifelong quest to find the perfect bolognese sauce. The opinions expressed are his own.