Vigorous summer winds in the channel may at times make the boat crossing a challenge to some, but once at Santa Cruz Island in a protected bay or cove, a serene experience awaits.
It is a gorgeous island all around, yet some areas are exceptional and merit special mention.
Cruising slowly along the rocky island coastline between Prisoners Harbor and Twin Harbors is an awe-inspiring pastime because of tree- and brush-covered rugged, steep mountains, and narrow but inviting canyons.
Watch closely and it is possible to spot the indigenous island scrub jay or a majestic bald eagle (thanks to a successful bald eagle relocation and breeding program by the National Park Service).
I’m pleased to report you will not be seeing any wild pigs wreaking destruction on the land, because the very difficult and costly eradication program was completed some years ago. I have not spotted one since the program wrapped up.
“Calm and serene” nicely describes the east end of the island. Smugglers Cove with its olive grove just above the inviting beach is particularly nice.
Often the most protected anchorage at the island (except for when Santana – a.k.a. Santa Ana – winds blow from the east), this is a favored and busy spot. It is a broad anchorage with plenty of room for lots of vessels to anchor and enjoy a stay.
The long south side of the island is protected to some degree from the prevailing northwesterlies that scour the north side. The west end of the islands features grand vistas of windswept mountains and canyons carved by wind and runoff.
The north side of the island (the side facing the mainland), along the western half, features jaw-dropping hauntingly beautiful tall cliffs plunging into the sea. Sea caves abound here, where kayakers — on days with mild swells — paddle happily to intimately explore spots where no one, besides pinnipeds and shore birds, visits.
My own favorite place in the world is here. Painted Cave is a spiritual place where boats can venture into the world’s longest sea cave on days with calm seas. Boaters typically come back out with a sense of awe and spiritual growth.
A private boat or charter boat is needed to visit many of these spots; however, easy access is available to certain hiking areas, such as Scorpion Anchorage and Prisoners Harbor, through National Park concessionaires. These companies offer boat rides to these spots and allow visitors time to go ashore and hike local trails to gain a feel for island life.
On the way across the channel, keep a sharp lookout for playful dolphins and whales. We are well into whale watching season and we are spotting both humpbacks and blue whales.
