When the Let’s Go Eat Team first discovered Aperitivo wine bar three years ago, we knew at once that co-owners Andrea Girardello and chef Brian Dodero were destined for big success, and bigger things.  

How great now to see that promise realized with the opening of their new full-restaurant concept: Manifattura at 413 State St.

“We chose the name to reflect the craft that goes into our food,” Dodero said of the name, which means “hand-made” in Italian.

“Plus its a good conversation starter because no one can pronounce it,” he added laughing. (Mah-nee-fah-TU-rah).

And that craftsmanship is on display not only in the kitchen and on the plate, but also right there in the front window.

Every morning, and often during service, you’ll find Jeanette making fresh pasta, focaccia bread, and desserts for everyone passing by to see.

Similar to Aperitivo, the Manifattura menu is smaller than a lot of Italian places.

“We didn’t want to be just another trattoria with a five-page menu,” Dodero told us. “Our menu is more of a statement.”

Girardello, who acts as maître d’ and sommelier, added, “We keep the menu purposely small, and people love it.”

“We focus all our attention on these few dishes,” he said. “Why do we need five salads, when we have one great salad?”

Before finding this space on Lower State Street, they told us they looked at more than 20 different locations.

“This one came up suddenly,” Girardello said, “and ended up being much bigger than we’d originally planned.”

Good thing: As of this writing Manifattura is doing three seatings per night, and is booked solid three weeks out.

More on the key to their success in a minute.

Neither Girardello nor Dodero started their careers in the hospitality business, initially pursuing software design and motorcycle repair, respectively. Eventually they snapped out of it and returned to their true passion, Italian food and wine.

Girardello earned his sommelier designation while working at the famed Principe Savoia in Milan, and Dodero learned his cooking chops at culinary school in Florence.

And they both worked at a succession of well-known properties before arriving in Santa Barbara at the Coral Casino Beach & Cabana Club and the Four Seasons Resort-The Biltmore Santa Barbara.

Dodero and Girardello attribute their success to a very simple formula.

“Being the owner/operators is huge,” Dodero said. “We want people to feel like they’re a guest in someone’s home.”

A sentiment complimented by the soft lighting and comfortable décor.

Girardello, who is originally from Milan, added, “I visit every table every night, and I personally call back everyone who leaves a voice mail, to help them get a table.”

“Also,” Girardello shared, “we try to keep Manifattura affordable. We don’t want it to be that ‘once-a-year-special-occasion’ kind of place.”

The wine list is a good example. Every wine is Italian, and most of the bottles are from smaller vintners, very reasonably priced.

“Anyone can buy the most expensive Brunellos, but we try to find the ones that are special and still affordable,” Girardello explained.

And the service here is great, staffed by the same Four Seasons-trained team that has made Aperitivo a success.

The menu is organized into starters, antipasti, and then pasta dishes (plus desserts!). And let’s get one thing straight: you have to order the Pizza Bianca, which is Roman-style focaccia baked with olive oil and salt. It is absurdly good.

“We use a slow cold-ferment process to give it more flavor,” Dodero explained, and they cook it in an iron pan imported from Italy to give it the crispy bottom.

And try the Fiori di Zucca (lightly battered stuffed zucchini flowers). “Quickly becoming a favorite among guests,” Girardello noted.

Next, order the Burrata Pugliese, which is fresh burrata cheese flown in from Puglia, with olive oil and sea salt. Or (and/or) the Melanzane in Agrodolce.

The Let’s Go Eat Team captain admits he doesn’t normally favor eggplant, but this is ridiculously good, with the sweet and sour tomato sauce, pine nuts and ricotta salata.

After that, Girardello says, “I encourage every table to try the Vitello Tonnato (chilled and thinly sliced veal, creamy tuna-caper sauce).” Also yes.

Then it’s time for some pasta.

“We offer four different pasta dishes, with a mix of vegetarian and meat choices,” Dodero explained.

Of the four, the Let’s Go Eat Team favorites are the Tonnarelli Cacio e Pepe and the Tagliatelle Degli Umarelles.

Cacio Pepe is only three ingredients (pasta, cheese, pepper), but very difficult to make properly.

“I learned the secret to doing this consistently and in volume from the folks at Luciano Cucina Italiana in Rome,” Dodero confided. 

The Tagliatelle (with meat sauce) is from the Emilia Romagna area, and cooks all day to get just right. Worth every minute of waiting.

The care and attention, plus the fresh ingredients, are clearly evident in every dish.

“Most important to me,” Dodero said, “is telling the story of the food to the guests so they understand what they’re ordering.”

“Guests are not here for a transaction,” Girardello added. “They’re here for the experience.”

In our experience, there’s no such thing as coming here too often.

F.Y.I.

Worth pointing out is the original Aperitivo is still open at 7 W. Haley St., and still great.  More on that in an upcoming feature.

When You Go

Manifattura, at 413 State St., is open from 5- 9 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Click here for more information.

More Let’s Go Eat

Rob Raede: Las Vegas’ Anima by EDO Is an ‘Hour’ from Home, a World of Soul on the Plate

Rob Raede: Aegean’s Mediterranean Cuisine Already Changing Santa Barbara Food Scene

Rob Raede: Marisella Brings Coastal Italian Glamour — and Local Perks — to Ritz-Carlton Bacara

Rob Raede: Woody’s Southern Chicken Gives Santa Barbara a Fried Side