There’s a movement coming ashore in Santa Barbara County, inspiring a change in the way we think about food.

We’re speaking here of the “localism” trend, and nowhere is this change more evident than in the new addition to Goleta’s food scene, the Santa Barbara Fish Market & Restaurant.

Located at at 7127 Hollister Ave. in The Plaza shopping center, just west of Camino Real Marketplace, Santa Barbara Fish Market is generating a lot of excitement in Goleta.

We sat down recently with founder Brian Colgate, CEO Laszlo Nemeth and chef Paul Osborne to see what’s driving it.

“I’ve talked to a lot of customers over the years, and I’ve never before experienced this level of gratitude and appreciation from guests,” said Nemeth, who has worked in high-end restaurants from Tucson to New York City.

Colgate, who started Santa Barbara Fish Market 20 years ago, shared his own vision.

“For 10 years I’ve been thinking about opening a market with a restaurant in Goleta,” he said. “Two years ago I saw the ‘vacancy’ sign here, and I knew the time was right.”

Adding Osborne to the team completed the picture.

“When we were starting this concept, I’d call Paul to ask his advice,” Nemeth said. “Finally I just asked him to join us.”

When word of something special going on in Goleta reached Team Let’s Go Eat HQ, we set out immediately to investigate.

At the suggestion of the counter staff, we started with the Confit Tuna Melt sandwich.  

Now, ordinarily we don’t get too worked up over a humble tuna sandwich. But one bite into this one and we knew the rumors were true.

“To make our tuna sandwich, we use the end pieces of the same premium grade ahi, bluefin and albacore you see in the display case,” Osborne explained. “Having access to this beautiful fish from our market is like a playground.”

Osborne is the embodiment of “localism” himself, having grown up in Goleta and, as he told us, “played T-ball where the Costco is now.”

A graduate of Santa Barbara City College’s Culinary School, he worked for several years in Portland, learning the Japanese way of preparing fish at sushi establishments.

“I’ve always had an obsession with seafood,” he added.

In 2016 he moved back to Santa Barbara, working for both the Hotel Californian restaurant group, and in management at the Rosewood Miramar Beach culinary operation.

“It’s fun to be back in the kitchen again,” Osborne told us, “making food for the people I grew up with, and serving seafood you can’t otherwise find in Goleta.”

To confirm our initial impression, Team LGE returned for follow-up visits (hey, it’s not easy, this food writing).

Results: The fish tacos are some of the best we’ve ever tasted, and the crispy petrale sole sandwich is incredibly flavorful.

“Local petrale sole is good for you,” Osborne said, noting it’s high in protein, potassium, Omega-3 and vitamin B.

Another crowd favorite is the Santa Barbara rockfish fish & chips.

“How do we make this item special?” Osborne asked. “Well, first we use local rockfish, fresh not frozen.

“Then we make hand-cut Kennebec fries, and add malt vinegar reduction and lemon zest.”

We noticed Japanese tartar sauce listed as an ingredient in several menu offerings, and asked Osborne about that.

“My wife, who is also a chef, actually developed this recipe,” he said. “We make it at home all the time, so we had to put it on the menu here.”

On Team LGE’s most recent visit, the people at the next table had driven all the way from Orange County, having heard of the restaurant and wanting to try the fresh Uni. Word’s out, folks.

Wrapping up our conversation, we asked Colgate, Nemeth and Osborne for a final thought.

“We’re really excited to offer nourishing, healthy fresh fish to the community,” Colgate replied. “Simple as that.”

Nemeth added, “This is probably the best seafood you’ll find between L.A. and San Francisco.”

And Osborne summed it up with, “I love offering amazing fish and food in a setting that’s not formal or stuffy. I like that people feel good when they eat our food.”

Locals Only

There are several things not on the Santa Barbara Fish Market & Restaurant menu but available if you ask, including the ponzu-marinated ikura sauce to put on the raw-bar items, the “Poke Bombs” and the Onigiri rice balls.

When You Go

The Santa Barbara Fish Market & Restaurant is located at 7127 Hollister Ave., Suite 18, in Goleta. Click here for more information.

The retail market is open 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sunday through Friday, and 7:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Saturday.

The restaurant is open from 11 a.m to 7 p.m. daily. Reservations are not required.