The far western edge of Goleta has become the latest Santa Barbara County community to fall to the burgeoning Roman invasion.

Happily, we’re speaking here of pizza, not Praetorians, and of a new and welcome entry to the local food scene: Pegaslice Roman Style Pizza.

Roman-style pizza (Pinsa alla Romana, or simply pinsa) is becoming increasingly popular around the world and throughout the county.

It made its initial local incursion at Nella Kitchen & Bar in Los Olivos and will soon appear on the menu at the new Ancora Osteria in Montecito’s Upper Village.

Now you can also find it at Pegaslice, which opened in early July at 7398 Calle Real, behind the 7-Eleven in El Encanto Heights west of Glen Annie Road.

“I find I have to do a bit of educating on what Roman style means,” owner and head chef McLeod Noormand told Team Let’s Go Eat.

“I summarize it this way: rectangular pizza cooked in a pan with a light and crispy crust.  Definitely not Neapolitan, New York or Detroit style.”

Roman pinsa crust is characterized by a light, cloud-like interior and ultra-crispy exterior.

And unlike other famous Italian pizza crusts — looking at you, Naples — you can, and will want to, eat every bit of a pinsa crust.

And you won’t wake up the next morning feeling like you swallowed a cannonball.

Combine that with creative and interesting toppings, and you have a recipe for success.

Noormand comes from local pizza royalty: His grandfather founded Giovanni’s Pizza here, and his father carries on the family tradition at the Giovanni’s in Carpinteria.

“I grew up making pizza,” Noormand shared, “I started in my dad’s restaurant when I was 13 and did everything from mopping floors to working the register.”

“When I was in high school (Santa Barbara High),” he continued, “I started learning how to make the food.

“Eventually I got good enough to help create some of Giovanni’s most popular dessert recipes, including the tiramisu and the cheesecake.”

After high school Noormand decided to pursue a different path, attending college to learn engineering and business.

Eventually he snapped out of it and came back to what he was born to do, enrolling in the Santa Barbara City College Culinary Arts program.

During and after school he worked for a variety of well-known local restaurants like Renaud’s Bakery & Bistro, Brass Bear Brewing, Caruso’s and Tamar — as well as, of course, his father’s restaurant.

Along the way he mixed in some travel, with stops in Japan to learn knife-making, and an extended tour of Italy.

“Rome is where I fell in love with Roman-style pizza, and in Florence I fell in love with Florentine-style sandwiches,” Noormand recounted.

They say life is all about choosing the right romantic partner.

And while attending The International Pizza Expo in Las Vegas, he met chef Massimiliano Saieva, known as the pioneer of Roman-style pizza in the United States.

“I took his three-day class to learn how to properly make the dough, which does in fact require 72 hours to properly ferment,” Noormand told us.

It all adds up to a unique background and education, which enabled Noormand to open his first restaurant in July of this year.

Why this location we asked? Meaning, why way the heck out here?

“I thought initially it would be a big challenge to get people over here,” Noormand explained, “but then I looked at a map, and saw how massive this neighborhood is, with only two restaurants on this side of the freeway.”

By the way, on one of Team LGE’s recent visits, a prominent member of the local Italian community was there, and he told us that word is out among the Italiani, and they’re coming to Pegaslice.

The menu currently features eight pizzas, five sandwiches, several appetizers and two salads.

“As far as pizza, I wanted to have some classics like Pepperoni and Margherita, but also some creative toppings, like Asian teriyaki chicken,” Noormand told us.

“And also some interesting combinations, like our Prince Zuko (Italian sausage with Calabrian chile).”

The dough is made using Grain Craft Upright flour, produced from wheat grown in the Rocky Mountain foothills of Idaho. The flour is ideal for creating pinsa’s light, crispy character.

“And all of my sandwiches are in the Florentine style,” he added, “using a bread similar to ciabatta, but thinner and crispier.”

“I’ve been making the Rocket Salad and grilled chicken for myself, and it’s available to customers as well,” Noormand told us.

“But not many people come here focused on salad,” he admitted with a smile.

Team LGE found the prices to be reasonable, the interior seating comfortable and inviting, and there’s also a pleasant patio.

What’s the story behind the name, we asked?

“I wanted it to be something iconic and mythological, and (importantly) trademark-able,” he replied. “I’m thinking ahead.”

Smart cookie.

What’s the best way to order for the first-time customer?

“Try a slice of Bianco and a slice of Prince Zuko, people really like them,” he explained. “Add a rocket salad, and then finish with some soft-serve ice cream. You’ll be happy.”

Apparently the road to happiness, like all roads, leads to Rome.

Locals Only

Definitely try the loaded Pega-fries.

When You Go

Pegaslice Roman Style Pizza — at 7398 Calle Real, Suite C, in Goleta — is open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, and 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Eat there, take out, or have it delivered.

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